Hat tip to Mike Koepke for bringing this to light…
In late October 1864, Sterling Price’s Missouri raid reached modern-day Kansas City. Price was repulsed at Westport and then along the banks of the Big Blue River. I spoke to the Kansas City Civil War Roundtable in March 2005 and had an opportunity to tour the battlefields with Kansas City lawyer Dan Smith. With my interest in Alf Pleasonton and in cavalry operations in general, this was a natural for me. However, the tour was just a week or so after I had arthoscopic surgery on my left shoulder, and I was still in a sling and not an especially happy camper, but I really enjoyed my tour.
Most of the Westport battlefield is preserved in a municipal park in a very nice residential area of Kansas City, although the entire battlefield is not in the park. You can definitely see the lay of the land and get a pretty good idea of how the terrain impacted the fighting. Westport was Samuel Curtis’ infantry against Price’s main body and Marmaduke’s cavalry.
The Big Blue fight was primarily a cavalry fight between Pleasonton’s cavalry and Shelby’s Confederate horsemen that lasted over parts of two full days. The Confederates won the first day’s fighting, and the Union the second, when Pleasonton, in what was probably his finest moment, drove the enemy horsemen off. There were about 3,000 casualties between the Big Blue and Westport fights, and Price was driven away, his raid a failure. Thus, the fights at Westport and the Big Blue are the critical events of Price’s Raid.
Unfortunately, very little of the Big Blue battlefield has been preserved; most of it is an industrial park, and a highway cuts through the middle of it. About all that’s really preserved is the actual river crossing site, which is completely pristine. There is very little interpretation there, other than a few strategically placed cannon and a couple of roadside historical markers. It is, consequently, very, very difficult to get a good understanding of the terrain and how the fighting played out.
Fortunately, Dan Smith is leading the charge to preserve and protect the Big Blue battlefield. Fortunately, about 240 acres has come into public ownership, and one of the buildings blocking the view to the river has been razed. They plan to raze at least one more building, and hopefuly two. The local preservation group has an admirable agenda: “The plan seeks to open and restore the vistas across the battlefield to conditions existing in 1864 to provide a sense and feeling to the visitor of the historic context of the site,†the group’s development plan says.
The group hopes to raise $300,000 in private donations, $300,000 to $500,000 in city capital-improvement dollars and $1 million to $1.5 million in federal money. They hope to have an interpretive center and to bring attention to an important battle.
I commend Dan Smith and his group, and wish them nothing but the best in their efforts. I hope that they succeed and preserve an important battlefield site that easily could have been destroyed forever. And for those who have an interest in the Trans-Mississippi, and in Price’s Raid in particular, a trip to Kansas City to visit these two battlefields is a must. They are well worth a visit.
Scridb filterRegular reader and fellow lawyer Randy Sauls, who lives in Goldsboro, NC, is the founder of the Goldsborough Bridge Battlefield Association. Randy has every reason in the world to be extremely proud of himself and of his organization.
In December 1862, Union General John G. Foster led 12,000 Union soldiers on a foray out of New Bern intended to destroy a vital railroad bridge over the Neuse River. 2,000 Confederate defenders awaited them. On December 17, 1862, the action occurred. Although Clingman’s Confederates fought valiantly and delayed Foster’s advance, the vastly larger Union force evetually overpowered the Southern defenders and the bridge was burned. Foster then returned to New Bern on December 20. The bridge was rebuilt within a matter of a few days and the railroad restored to service.
The battlefield languished for decades. About ten years ago, the county acquired 32 acres of the battlefield, and Randy and his group raised money and spent years developing those 32 acres into a nice little battlefield park. Randy sent along photos, and it appears that he and his group have done a first rate job of it. Their battlefield park was dedicated on December 13. The park features a Civil War Trails marker, four other interpretive markers, a restored fence lines, a walking trail, and a gravel parking lot. This project, accomplished with private dollars, clearly was a labor of love for Randy and his merry band. My friend Wade Sokolosky’s Confederate ancestor was killed in action during this fight, and Wade–a lieutenant colonel on active duty in the United States Army–was present in the uniform of a Confederate private.
Randy invited me to the dedication ceremony, and I would have loved to have made it. However, it was just a few days after Susan’s knee surgery, and I would not have felt comfortable leaving her under the circumstances. Consequently, I reluctantly passed on the invitation, even though I would have loved to have been there and to have been a part of their success.
Kudos to Randy and his gang for a first-rate job, and for providing us with a textbook illustration of how a group can accomplish a lot without a lot of public money while still preserving our heritage and history. I’m looking forward to visiting the battlefield in May, when we have our annual North Carolina vacation.
North Carolina seems to spawn these groups. The most notable one, of course, is the Averasboro Battlefield Commission, which has done a magnificent job with almost no public money. The folks in Kinston are trying to do something similar with the First Kinston and Wyse’s Fork battlefields through their Historical Preservation Group, and I likewise commend their efforts.
It seems to me that the rest of us could learn something from the success of these groups in the Old North State.
Scridb filterThe wonderful news contained in this press release came to me via e-mail:
GAMING CONTROL BOARD REJECTS SLOTS PARLOR NEAR HISTORIC GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD
After 20 months of debate, the Control Board concludes that Gettysburg and gambling don’t mix.
(Harrisburg, Pa., 12/20/2006) – During a public hearing today, the Pennsylvania Gaming Control Board rejected a proposal to build a 3,000-machine slots parlor one mile from the Gettysburg Battlefield. James Lighthizer, president of the Civil War Preservation Trust (CWPT), issued the following statement in the wake of the vote:
“This is a great day for Gettysburg and for preservationists throughout the nation. By not allowing gambling to encroach on this famous town and battlefield, Pennsylvania has sent a clear message that it cares deeply for its historic treasures. It is no exaggeration to say that this is the most significant battlefield preservation victory since the defeat of Disney’s proposed theme park at Manassas in the early 1990s.
“Together with the many thousands of Americans who have anxiously awaited this decision for some 20 months, I applaud the members of the Gaming Control Board and thank them for recognizing that Gettysburg and gambling don’t mix.
“I also want to thank the tireless volunteers of No Casino Gettysburg and recognize the work of our other partners in the Stop the Slots Coalition. There is no question that this victory was a team effort.
“I sincerely hope this vote will serve to motivate preservationists to redouble their efforts to save the remainder of the Gettysburg Battlefield before it is lost forever. The casino proposal itself was merely a symptom of a larger development problem plaguing Gettysburg and many other Civil War battlefield communities. The Civil War Preservation Trust is committed to working with other preservation groups to protect the Gettysburg battleground.â€
Since the Gettysburg slots parlor was first proposed in April 2005, CWPT has been one of the leading voices against the casino. Earlier this year, the organization identified Gettysburg as one of the most endangered battlefields in the nation because of the slots proposal. CWPT members collected more than 34,000 signatures in opposition to the casino. Together with the National Parks Conservation Association, the National Trust for Historic Preservation, No Casino Gettysburg and Preservation Pennsylvania, CWPT is proud to be a member of the Stop the Slots Coalition.
The Civil War Preservation Trust is a 70,000-member nonprofit battlefield preservation organization. Its mission is to preserve our nation’s endangered Civil War sites. Since 1987, the organization has saved more than 23,000 acres of hallowed ground throughout the United State, including 697 acres in and around Gettysburg. CWPT’s website is located at www.civilwar.org.
It’s so reassuring to find that, for once, the bureaucrats got it right and put the interests of the voting public and of history ahead of the interests of big money. I thought for sure that this was a done deal, and it came as a happy and very pleasant surprise to learn that, for a change, my cynicism was not well-taken.
Scridb filterPerhaps I spoke a eulogy for the Hunterstown battlefield too soon.
From today’s edition of the Hanover Evening Sun newspaper:
Hunterstown, Fairfield part of Gettysburg Battle
By MEG BERNHARDT
Evening Sun Reporter
The National Park Service sign near the site of the Battle of Hunterstown details the cavalry engagement there. The Park Service has designated the battle at Hunterstown and another at Fairfield as part of the Battle of Gettysburg.
The National Park Service announced Tuesday it intends to include Hunterstown and Fairfield in an updated field study of the Gettysburg Battlefield.
Both towns were the site of cavalry battles during the Battle of Gettysburg – Hunterstown on July 2nd and Fairfield on July 3rd.
But their inclusion in the field study by the Park Service’s American Battlefield Protection Program does not mean they are now part of the official Gettysburg National Military Park.
“In this program, the community drives the efforts. It’s not a top down thing,” said Katie Lawhon, the spokeswoman for the park. “This does not mean the National Park Service intends to expand the park boundary to include Fairfield and Hunterstown.”
In a news release from the American Battlefield Protection Program, it said the two sites “were the scenes of fierce cavalry fighting and were directly related to the battle.”
The release states the primary purpose of the update is to help planning the preservation of Civil War battlefields, but also makes clear that the program does not have the authority to expand park boundaries.
And that means the new inclusion of the battlefield won’t affect currently planned and approved development like the 2,000-home Gettysburg Commons, Lawhon said. Some of the houses will actually be placed on the Hunterstown battlefield, an outcome preservationists would like to avoid.
Lawhon said the National Park Service would need an act of Congress and funding before acquiring any new land or expanding the boundaries of the park.
But local preservationists hope an act of Congress will follow, now that a federal government study has legitimized claims the battles were integral in the battle.
“With the support there is in Congress to preserve these battlefield sites, it’s going to happen,” said Hunterstown preservationist Roger Harding. “I think a lot of people just don’t want to believe it.”
Instead of just taking land, the program provides funding to help communities implement planning policies to protect the battleground if they decide to, she said.
And that funding and designation as part of the Gettysburg Battlefield will open doors to more grant money and matching funds, Harding said.
He’s the leader of Friends of Hunterstown, a group that hopes to preserve Hunterstown’s history.
Hunterstown, four miles north of Gettysburg, has been called the “north cavalry field,” following the pattern of the east and south cavalry fields. Some historians have argued the seemingly separate cavalry actions from Hanover to Fairfield are unified elements, part of the big picture of the Battle of Gettysburg.
Groundbreaking on the first phase of Gettysburg Commons, near Routes 15 and 394, is anticipated for later this year, but it will be at least four or five years before the Hunterstown battle area is developed, developer Rick Klein has said.
Klein has already agreed to extra screening in certain critical areas and to install a wayside exhibit at the Confederate position near the Gilbert farm, but preservationists hope for further concessions.
They also hope the Civil War Preservation Trust will follow the lead of the American Battlefield Protection Program and consider Fairfield and Hunterstown as part of Gettysburg, a top priority for the trust’s preservation efforts.
“I think it’s very good for the preservation community who has been concerned about sites at Fairfield and Hunterstown because now the American Battlefield Protection Program is now available to help them with planning, interpreting and protecting of the sites,” Lawhon said.
This doesn’t mean that the battlefields will be saved, but it’s a first step, and perhaps they can, in fact, be saved after all. Stay tuned.
Scridb filterIt’s been a LONG time since I was this angry about something. I received this press release from the CWPT today:
DEVELOPERS ILLEGALLY BULLDOZE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE LAND AT HARPERS FERRY
Historic School House Ridge Battlefield at Harpers Ferry Violated This Past Weekend
Harpers Ferry, W.Va. – The Civil War Preservation Trust (CWPT) and the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) issued a statement today in response to the illegal bulldozing of a portion of the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park this past weekend by a handful of local developers. Purposely and without permission, the developers dug a deep trench through historic land owned by the National Park Service and the American people.
“Beginning on the morning of August 19, 2006, a group of local developers moved heavy machinery and work crews onto the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park and proceeded to lay water and sewer pipes on historic land where Stonewall Jackson launched one of the most brilliant tactical triumphs of the Civil War,†said CWPT President James Lighthizer. “The developers had neither authority nor the permits necessary to do this.â€
The purpose of the water and sewer line is to facilitate a planned development of approximately 3,400 houses proposed for construction both inside and adjacent to the Park Service boundary. To date, the developers have not received any local approvals necessary for this development to proceed.
“These developers knowingly and defiantly ignored federal laws regarding construction on public land,†said Joy Oakes, Senior NPCA Mid-Atlantic Regional Director. “Americans have a right to expect that land protected by the Park Service cannot be bulldozed outside of an orderly and legal review. We encourage federal and state law enforcement officials to pursue these violators to the fullest extent of the law.â€
For several years, CWPT and NPCA have been leaders in an extraordinary and successful effort to protect historic lands at Harpers Ferry. With the support of local business owners, civil rights leaders, conservationists, history buffs, recreation enthusiasts, heritage tourism interests, and elected officials, Congress expanded the park’s boundary in 2004. Millions in federal grants as well as private funds have been raised to purchase land from willing sellers to add to the national park.
“We are horrified at this premeditated and unprecedented desecration of School House Ridge,†said Lighthizer. “For several years, CWPT and NPCA have been working with federal and state officials to protect this property. Last year CWPT appealed to our members to help raise the $1.5 million needed to acquire the site bulldozed this weekend for preservation. We are outraged, and expect immediate restitution from these developers.â€
As the developers were running their bulldozers last weekend, hundreds gathered from across the country to participate in a National Park Service-hosted commemoration of the centennial of a meeting at Harpers Ferry in 1906 that laid the cornerstone of the modern-day civil rights movement.
CWPT is a 75,000-member nonprofit battlefield preservation organization. Its mission is to preserve our nation’s endangered Civil War sites and promote appreciation of these hallowed grounds. Over the years, CWPT has saved more than 23,000 acres of hallowed ground, including 325 acres on the Harpers Ferry Battlefield.
Since 1919, the nonpartisan NPCA has been the leading voice of the American people in protecting and enhancing our National Park System. NPCA, its 325,000 members, and partners work together to protect the park system and preserve our nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage for generations to come.
This is an outrage that almost defies description. I can only hope that these bastards are prosecuted and that the financial penalty HURTS and is not merely a slap on the wrist.
If you’re as angry about this as I am, please send an e-mail to Interior Secretary Kempthorne at exsec@ios.doi.gov.
Scridb filterOne of the things that I was able to learn during my trip to Trevilian Station last week was precisely which parcel of land was the subject of the recent acquisition. The parcel in question is on the west side of the Fredericksburg Road, Rt. 669, just to the north of the old railroad depot. The parcel starts just on the other side of the CSX right of way and extends to the north, connecting with the nearly 1000 acre parcel that was the first major acquisition by the Trevilian Station Battlefield Foundation. It’s really a very important parcel of land, and it gives an unbroken link to the railroad itself.
The old train station, which is post-war, used to serve as the post office for the hamlet of Trevilians. I was surprised to find that the post office has moved out of the building, which now sits vacant. CSX has told the TSBF that it can buy the building for $1.00. Sounds like a great bargain, right?
Wrong. If the TSBF buys it, it will have to move it immediately, as it sits in the right-of-way and moving it would be a condition of sale. That means that TSBF would have to have a place to put it, as well as the money to physically relocate it. The building’s not in great shape, and would require a lot of fixing up. There’s too much endangered land out there, and I’m pleased to report to you that the TSBF has its priorities straight–it would rather devote its scarce resources to land aquisition than to buying this building that wasn’t even there at the time of the battle. Smart call, even if a fixed-up version of the depot would make a decent battlefield visitor’s center.
The logical place for a visitor’s center for the Trevilian Station battlefield would be the reproduction of the Netherland Tavern that sits adjacent to the original site of the tavern. There are also problems with it. First, and foremost, it’s on private property, and the owner sees it as a money-making venture. Second, when it was built, it was done 1864-style. It has no electricity, and it has no running water. It would have to be wired and plumbed, and heat and air conditioning installed for it to become a viable visitor’s center. It also is short on parking. Thus, it is far from the optimal choice, either.
Some day, the issue of a visitor center for the Trevilian Station battlefield will need to be addressed. However, for now, it need not be. The simple truth is that there aren’t that many battlefield visitors yet, and there’s far, far too much endangered land at Trevilians to devote the resources to developing one when those dollars would be better spent buying more of the battlefield.
Scridb filterA couple of weeks, I shared some good preservation news from Trevilian Station that a proposal to erect a cellular telephone tower over a critical portion of the battlefield had been rejected by the local board responsible for such things.
Today, I have even better preservation news from Trevilian Station.
The Trevilian Station Battlefield Foundation is a grass-roots organization that started with some local folks who live in Louisa County. When they first started out almost ten years ago, they knew next to nothing about how to preserve battlefield land, and they certainly hadn’t saved an inch. Over time, they’ve learned and have bcome one of the most effective preservation groups around.
The battlefield itself ranges over almost 7,000 acres of Louisa County, Virginia. The first day of fighting covered a lot of ground, as the Confederate cavalry fought a fierce delaying action along the Fredericksburg Stage Road. Virtually ever inch of that road was fought over, and most of it was very hard fighting. The bulk of the first day’s battlefield is, therefore, along this road.
In 2001, with the assistance of the Civil War Preservation Trust, the TSBF preserved about 1,000 acres of the core of the first day’s battlefield, land adjacent to the Fredericksburg Stage Road (Rt. 613). Another parcel of land, the 428 acre Dunn Farm, has been acquired by the TSBF, again with the assistance of the CWPT and an entity called Bernstein Louisa Properties, LLC (I am not familiar with this entity and don’t know what its mission is, but I appreciate its assistance).
The Dunn Farm was an important site of the first day of the battle, and was near the site where Wade Hampton personally led a saber charge by the Citadel Cadet Rangers, a company of the 4th South Carolina Cavalry. As Jerry Harlow of the TSBF has put it, just a few years ago, the Dunn Farm would have been an impossible dream. Today, the TSBF owns it, and it is forever preserved.
The acquisition of the Dunn Farm means that the TSBF now owns exactly 2,000 acres of core battlefield land. Not bad for a grass roots organization.
Congratulations on a job very well done, guys. And keep up the very good work.
Scridb filterYes, I know I said I wasn’t going to post anything today….
However, I couldn’t resist this. After the horrible news about Hunterstown, it’s nice to be able to bring you some good battlefield preservation news. From the Charlottesville Daily Progress newspaper:
Battlefield quashed as cell tower site
By Megan Rowe / Daily Progress staff writer
June 26, 2006
TREVILIANS – To Steward Hottinger, the offer from Community Wireless Structures III LLC sounded promising.
The company was going to pay him an increasing sum during the next 35 years to build a 199-foot-tall cell phone tower on a stretch of his property off Louisa Road.
The first year, he and his wife, Mary, would have gotten $14,400. Eventually, the amount would have been about $33,311. The 75-year-olds hoped the money would help their three children and six grandchildren.
But the tower never became a reality for the Hottingers. Turns out the property that looked so promising to Community Wireless was also home to a bloody Civil War battle.
Roughly 1,700 soldiers died in the Battle of Trevilian Station, which was fought on the property now owned by Hottinger. Although the property is already home to two electrical poles, Trevilian Station Battlefield Foundation members were concerned that the higher cell phone tower would be more noticeable. Hottinger’s property is located near the battlefield foundation’s property, but “nothing on that side of the road is owned by them,†he said.
Members of the battlefield foundation did not want to comment.
The proposal “went to a neighborhood meeting,†Louisa County Director of Community Development Darren Coffey said. “It got lambasted in the neighborhood meeting, and it got withdrawn before it ever made it to the development review committee.â€
The development review committee is a Planning Commission subcommittee that makes recommendations before the proposal goes before the Planning Commission, Coffey explained. Then applications go before the county’s Board of Supervisors.
Tam Murray, a managing member of Community Wireless, said the company is instead pursuing a site on Poindexter Road and is discussing coverage with Cingular and T-Mobile.
“We want to develop a site in that vicinity that provides coverage to the carriers,†he said. “It just seemed to make sense to pursue a different site, given the controversial nature of that location.â€
But Dovetail Cultural Resource Group LLC disagreed with the battlefield foundation’s concerns. The group did a cultural resource survey and noted that “the tower will be difficult to see from the critical points of the battlefield.â€
Such concerns aren’t uncommon, though. The Virginia Department of Historic Resources must evaluate all potential cell phone towers and forward a recommendation to the Federal Communications Commission, said Ethel Eaton, who manages DHR’s office of review and compliance.
The DHR decides if the tower will affect historic property and if so, whether it will have an adverse effect.
“It’s a decision of the federal agency whether they want to go forward with the adverse effect or not,†Eaton added. “Obviously, we would protest a little if they decided to tear down Monticello to build a tower, but we only have three choices to give.â€
While the county currently doesn’t require a DHR recommendation before applications go to the development review committee, “I think as the zoning administrator, I’m going to start requiring it,†Coffey said. “I think from the county’s standpoint, we want them to have all their ducks in a row before they submit it.â€
Parts of Trevilians are cell phone dead zones. But “sticking a 199-foot tower on historic property isn’t the way to do it,†Coffey added.
Steward Hottinger, however, is still upset that he will not get the additional income from the tower. “Anything historical seems to have more power than common sense.â€
“We don’t get a pension,†added Hottinger, who used to do vehicle body work. “Our whole life has been here. … We’ve made a living. I’m not complaining about that. But this would’ve been a nice little income for us.â€
Contact Megan Rowe at (434) 978-7267 or mrowe@dailyprogress.com.
This tower would have been placed pretty much right in the center of the first day’s battlefield at Trevilian Station. Much of the land in this sector of the battlefield is pristine, so having a hideous cellular tower there would really have been a blight on an otherwise beautiful battlefield. Good riddance, if you ask me.
While it’s certainly not on the scale of the catastrophe at Hunterstown, every little preservation like this one helps……
Scridb filterAs a student of cavalry operations, I pride myself on visiting and learning about obscure and out of the way cavalry battlefields. I’ve been to some extremely obscure places in my day.
One of my very favorite Civil War cavalry battlefields has always been the little gem of a cavalry battlefield at Hunterstown, about six miles north of Gettysburg. On July 2, 1863, Brig. Gen. Judson Kilpatrick’s division, marching for Gettysburg, ran into the rear guard of Brig. Gen. Wade Hampton’s Confederate cavalry brigade at Hunterstown, and a nasty little fight evolved from this meeting engagement. Brig. Gen. George Custer led an impetuous charge, and was nearly killed and then captured when his horse was shot out from under him and then fell on him, pinning him. Only a heroic gallop by his orderly saved him from capture.
The Hunterstown battlefield was almost completely pristine until a huge and horrifically ugly power station was built on a portion of it about five years ago. As if that wasn’t bad enough, on my most recent visit to Gettysburg, I learned that the entire battlefield–a small but beautiful gem–is in dire danger of being turned into nasty little cheesebox houses. From today’s issue of the Hanover Evening Sun:
History lost forever
By MARC CHARISSE
Evening Sun Editor
The big white barn stood as silent sentinel for more than 140 years.
But time had taken its toll. Only the foolishly brave would have followed in the footsteps of Gen. Custer’s troopers, out across the rotting timbers to the bales of hay still stacked near the second-story windows where the Michigan men waited to ambush the Rebel horsemen.
The massive Reliant Energy generating station looms in background, but it was still easy enough, in the middle of these pristine farm fields, to imagine it was July 2, 1863. Surrounded by open space and pastoral silence, it was easy to hear the boom of cannons and the rattle of carbines.
It was here that George Custer, a general for just three days, was nearly killed and showed his true colors as a commander. Here, in a particularly vicious clash along the Hunterstown Road, his Michigan cavalrymen helped decide the outcome of the Battle of Gettysburg.
And then it was gone.
Without warning, the historic Felty barn was torn down this month, just a few weeks before a battlefield tour that last year drew about 300 people to this little-known crossroads.
“That just takes the wind out of you,” said National Park Service ranger-historian Troy Harman, who has been studying the battle and working with preservationists to save at least some portion of the field. “I feel like a prize fighter who’s been staggered.”
The Felty barn may seem a minor casualty in the battle for historic preservation. Within a decade, most of the Hunterstown battlefield will disappear under a 2,000-home development approved for the area.
But there is still hope some portion of the field can be saved, and the old barn was the centerpiece of the battle, a symbol of the rearguard action fought by preservationists to save Hunterstown before it is too late.
Saving the farm
Posted near the old barn is a sign that reads: “Dan and Leo Keller, Adams County Conservation District, Farmer of the Year 1994.”
But much of the farm, owned by J. Felty during the Civil War, will become part of developer Rick Klein’s Gettysburg Commons.
Leo Keller doesn’t want to comment on the demise of his historic barn. The building was already falling down, he says, and he just finished the job.
Preservationists say he could have gotten an easement, grants to shore up the falling structure.
But Keller says while lots of folks made noise about saving the barn, no one ever actually came by with an offer to fix it up for him.
The preservationists say they tried. The trouble, they say, is that too many longtime locals take their historic heritage for granted. It’s a battle waged across central Pennsylvania between the reality of local agricultural economics and dreams of a national shrine to America’s collective past. So it’s no surprise that much of their support comes from Civil War and historical groups across the country.
Jackie Volkhen, of Grand Rapids, Mich., heard about the barn’s demise in an e-mail from Roger and Laurie Harding, newcomers to Hunterstown who bought the historic Tate farm four years ago and have since started a local preservation group.
Volkhen and her husband, John, are re-enactors who come to Gettysburg at least a couple of time a year and hope someday to move there.
“I was just horrified,” she says. “How much history is in that barn that’s gone now.”
She pauses before adding, “I suppose when you live in a place, you grew up there, you think, ‘Ah, that’s not a big deal.”
It wasn’t until a few years ago that the Volkhens learned of the role their local Michigan heroes played at Hunterstown from a fellow re-enactor. These days, a Hunterstown visit on the anniversary of the battle is the highlight of their annual pilgrimages.
Volkhen says she gets goose bumps when she walks the battlefield. “I get a profound sadness, that someone might have died where I’m standing. It might have been one of our Michigan boys,” she says. “I’m sad that the story is so little known.”
If more people understood what happened at Hunterstown, she says, maybe the battlefield could be saved.
Earning his spurs
Like most battles, exactly what happened at Hunterstown is surrounded with controversy.
This much is certain: Twenty-three year old George Armstrong Custer led a seemingly suicidal charge of a few dozen men down the Hunterstown Road against an enemy who was behind cover and outnumbered him.
Hemmed in by the fences on either side of the road, the troopers could only charge four abreast, a perfect target for the Rebels lined up at the Gilbert farm on the ridge to the south.
Dressed, as one of his men said, like a “circus rider gone mad,” and flashing his saber made of Toledo steel. The Boy General had his horse shot from under him and narrowly escaped death or capture when one of his men hoisted him onto his own horse as the Union troopers scurried back to the Felty farm less than a mile away.
Some historians see at Hunterstown the reckless bravery that would eventually get Custer killed at the Little Big Horn.
But ranger-historian Harman sees the battle a little differently. It was here that Custer really earned his general’s spurs.
It was the second day of the Battle of Gettysburg and the Union forces were worried about an attack on the right flank at Culp’s Hill. The cavalry had been ordered to scout the area north of the hill in search on Confederate troops.
Rebel cavalry commanded by Gen. Wade Hampton had been spotted at Hunterstown, moving south, and it was Custer’s job to find out what lay behind them.
Harman says Custer planned a careful trap.
He hid men in the barn and in the fields across the road. Behind the barn, out of sight of the Rebels, Union artillery unlimbered and got ready for the bloody work ahead.
Custer understood the impetuosity of cavalrymen; Harman says he knew if he attacked, the Rebel horsemen wouldn’t be able to resist the challenge and would chase him back down the Hunterstown Road into an ambush.
He was right.
Confederate private Wiley C. Howard remembered what happened next:
“Our command had a thrilling experience and while charging a body of cavalry down a lane leading by a barn, ran into an abuscade of men posted in the barn who dealt death and destruction upon us. Within five minutes some four or five officers were killed or wounded and about fifteen men were slain or wounded.”
Casualties were relatively light – 22 Union cavalrymen, five officers and an unknown number of enlisted men on the Confederate side killed, wounded or missing.
But Harman says the battle was important because it kept the attention of both sides focused on the northern end of the battlefield when the crucial struggle was to the south, at Little Round Top and the Peach Orchard.
The cavalry action further delayed and weakened Confederate attacks on Culp’s Hill. It also delayed the redeployment of Union cavalry to the south, leaving the Union left flank unprotected on July 2.
Harman likes to call Hunterstown, four miles north of Gettysburg, the “north cavalry field,” following the pattern of the east and south cavalry fields. He sees the seemingly separate cavalry actions from Hanover to Fairfield as unified elements, part of the big picture of the Battle of Gettysburg.
“In all of these actions, Union cavalry buffered key Union positions in four directions of the compass,” he wrote in a recent article. “Each site is equally essential to accurately portraying Gettysburg as the most famous battle for human freedom in American History.”
Eyeing opportunity
Gettysburg developer Rick Klein sees economic opportunity in the fields around Hunterstown – not just for himself but for Adams County schools and communities.
He sees opportunity for history, too.
Called Gettysburg Commons for now, the development will market itself to “active adults” without kids who will swell the tax base without crowding the schools.
And the development will be marketed with an eye on history. Streets will have Civil War names and the 25,000-30,000-foot clubhouse will house a display on the battle of Hunterstown.
“The area’s going to develop. You can’t just shut the doors and block the highways,” Klein says. “But this is very positive growth.”
Homes will be priced from the low 3’s, Klein says, and will offer working couples royal amenities like the clubhouse and outdoor ballroom. Groundbreaking on the first phase, near Routes 15 and 394, is anticipated for later this year, but it will be at least four or five years before the Hunterstown battle area is developed, he said.
Klein has already agreed to extra screening in certain critical areas and to install a wayside exhibit at the Confederate position near the Gilbert farm. Still, he would only give the state Historical and Museum Commission approved plan a “C or a D.” Klein says he’s hoping for an A in preserving the battlefield, which lies outside the National Park Boundary.
Harman – speaking for preservationists and not the National Park Service – says he hopes Klein will make three additional concessions critical to the integrity of the battlefield.
Preservationists hope development will stop short of the artillery positions on the Tate-Felty ridge. A couple of hundred feet away, at the road, they’d like to see a turnout and interpretive marker at the center of the Union line.
Finally, moving the buffer of trees from 50 to 150 feet away on the east side of the Hunterstown Road would preserve the frontage of the Michigan cavalrymen and save the central part of the battlefield.
Klein says he’s willing to consider the changes, if he and his engineers are convinced of their feasibility and importance.
He’s also willing to talk about a monument to Custer, for which the Michigan re-enactors are already raising funds.
“What they’re going to get at the end of the day,” he promises, “is going to better than they ever expected.”
Preservationist Harding says she is appreciative and hopeful, noting Klein’s company contacted the Hardings about a monument to Custer and the trooper who saved his life on the Hunterstown battlefield.
“We hope he takes into consideration that is a battlefield and people did die there,” she says. “I have to trust his word and hope he follows through.”
This is some of the very worst news I’ve heard in a long time. This gorgeous little pristine battlefield is about to be lost forever, which makes me terribly sad. All lost for a few bucks. How very depressing indeed that years of preservation efforts, led by Dean Shultz, failed so miserably here (although it’s not for trying by Dean; he did all he could). While I pretty vigorously disagree with most of Troy Harman’s interpretation of the fight, I do give him credit for focusing attention on this little gem of a battlefield (he calls it North Cavalry Field, a name I think is not only very appropriate, but also very fitting), and I had hoped that his efforts might help to save the field. Sadly, I was wrong. Even if the developer does everything that he’s been asked to do, and a completely needless monument to Custer is erected, the battlefield still will have forever lost its integrity, and that is horrible.
Scridb filterI’m back from Gettysburg. It was a fun but terribly exhausting weekend. We were really kind of overprogrammed for the time we were there. Friday was an incredibly long day. We were up at 5:00 AM for a 6:00 departure to take Dale Gallon to tour the Trevilian Station battlefield. It took 3 1/2 hours to get down there, we spent a little more than 3 hours on the battlefield, and then another 3 1/2 hours to drive back to Gettysburg. All told, it was nearly a twelve hour day, followed by another very long day yesterday. Today, I had a six hour drive home after about four hours of battlefield stomping.
One thing really struck me during my time at Gettysburg this trip, something I’ve never really noticed before. The National Park Service is spending oodles of money at Gettysburg cutting down trees that have grown up there where there weren’t trees during the war, and in re-planting some historic tree lots, such as orchards, that were there at the time of the battle but which have been lost over the years. Now, don’t get me wrong–I love the vistas and I love being able to see things the way they were at the time of the battle. Acres and acress of trees have been cleared out between Devil’s Den and the Slyder farm, which opens the place up and gives an entirely different perspective on things. I do love it.
The park is also spending vast amounts of money restoring historic fence lines. Worm rail fences are being restored, as well as plank and board fences that were torn down or eliminated decades ago are being rebuilt and replaced on the field. Again, the restoration of these fences so as to restore the historic appearance of the battlefield is important work, and I don’t mean to downplay it. However, none of it does a thing to preserve an inch of threatened land, and none of it does a thing to preserve more of our heritage for future generations.
At the same time, there are stark contrasts.
Late on the afternoon of July 2, a nasty little cavalry engagement took place at Hunterstown, about six miles from Gettysburg. The combatants were Custer’s Michigan Cavalry Brigade (supported by Elon Farnsworth’s brigade) and Wade Hampton’s Confederate cavalry brigade. Until about five years ago, the battlefield was pretty much completely pristine. Only one small Twentieth Century structure had been built on the battlefield, and the rest was open farm fields with period homes and barns.
About five years ago, a power plant was built on a portion of the battlefield. It’s huge, and it’s one of the worst eyesores I’ve ever seen. In an effort to try to screen the thing, they built huge earthen berms in front of it. All of it has dramatically changed the lay of the land. However, the core of the battlefield remains intact and still pristine. To my great sadness, I learned today that there is apparently a movement afoot to built cheesy little tract homes on a portion of the battlefield.
There have been a number of efforts to try to acquire preservation easements for the pristine ground, all of which have been rebuffed. I am scared that this little gem of a battlefield will be obliterated in the name of progress much sooner than later, and there doesn’t seem to be much of anything that anyone can do about it.
The contrast between the failure to preserve this ground and the huge sums of money that are being spent on tree cutting and planting and on restoring historic fence lines–purely cosmetic stuff–is stark. Then there are national parks like the Petersburg National Battlefield where there is essentially no budget at all for anything. Several years ago, Chris Calkins told me that he had to limit visitors to making ten copies at the park library because that was all the budget he had available for that sort of thing. Again, the contrast is shocking. All of this really makes me wonder whether the folks responsible for this stuff really and truly have their priorities straight. I don’t think they do.
Is it ego run amok? Is the ego of the Gettysburg superintendent so immense that he needs to create this sort of a vast monument to himself?
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